Saturday, April 30, 2011

Bhubaneswar: The City of Temples



For as much as I have seen in this short span in and around Bhubaneswar, I do believe it is representative of a piece of culture that Orissa as a whole as to offer. Essentially, the golden triangle of Bhubaneswar, Konark and Puri is quite a handful for soaking the culture and character of Orissa. Visit the ancient city of Bhubaneswar (Bhuban being the world and Ishwar God) and it is a walk down centuries of temple architecture. It is probably the only city that provides an authentic overview of the stages of development of Hindu religious architecture. Once the capital of an ancient kingdom, the city still reverberates with the echoes of the past amidst its bustling modernity.  


So I got the opportunity to explore Bhubaneswar; the political and cultural capital of Orissa. I first went to Dhauli and saw Ashoka Rock Edict. It stands as a testimony of the famous Kalinga war fought here by the river Daya back in 261 BC that changed Emperor Ashoka to an apostle of peace. It is at a distance of 8km from Bhubaneswar on the Puri road. 


Then I went to the Lingaraj Temple. It is a magnificent monument dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Lingaraj temple is an 11th century monument and one of the outstanding specimens of Orissa style of temple building. It represents true Oriya style, where both sculpture and architecture have evolved in perfect harmony. Then we went to Mukteswar temple. This 10th century monument is near the Lingaraja temple. It is famous for the stone arch and sculptures depicting stories from Panchatantra and is considered the gem of Orissa Temple Architecture. 


Then my visit was to Bindu Sagar Lake; Literally meaning "ocean drop". This large tank is located at the centre of the old Bhubaneshwar city. Pilgrims flock to take a dip in the lake which is supposed to wash away their sins. Then I was mesmerised seeing  The 11th century Brahmeswara temple; situated amidst calm, green surroundings, at the outskirts of the city. Considered the abode of Brahma, the elaborate ribbed architecture of the temple shows dancing women and Orissa lions attractively carved on the exterior walls. 


My next destination was the Orissa State Museum. This museum has a splendid collection of stone sculptures, patta paintings, brass castings, horn toys and famous filigree. The twin hills of Khandagiri and Udaygiri are filled with ancient Jain caves cut from the rocks, which seem to form a honeycomb. These caves were carved out during 1st and 2nd century BC to serve as human habitations for the ruler of Kalinga and his queens.  The Hathi Gupha, the Elephant cave, records the life chronicle of King Kharavada, the first Oriya ruler, responsible for the expansion of the Kalinga Empire. The entrances to the temples are decorated with ancient Pali inscriptions. Khandagiri has a series of cave temples belonging to the Hindu and Jain faiths. 


My next stay was at the Parasurameswara Temple. Built in 650 AD this is one of the earliest temples of Bhubaneshwar. This temple built in the Kalinga style of temple architecture was dedicated to Lord Shiva but there are images of Lord Vishnu, Yama, Surya and seven Mother Goddesses. Also the Swaranajaleswara temple. Built in a similar style, the motifs on the walls however differ, depicting scenes from the Ramayana. Most beautiful was the Raja Rani Temple. Set amidst picturesque surroundings, this 11th century structure is graceful, elegant and unusual due to the absence of any deity. 
Then I wished to explore the wildlife. So my next destination was the famous Nandan Kanan Biological Par. Situated between Bhubaneshwar and Cuttack, Nandan Kanan is a patch of undulating and sylvan forest, flanked by the beautiful Kanjia Lake. It has a rich collection of animals, birds, reptiles including the white tiger, black panther and gharials. I also visited the hot springs of Atri. 


On the concluding part of my trip, I went to see Konark temple. It is about 60 km from Bhubaneswar. Konark is famous worldwide for its magnificent Sun Temple. This is one of the best stunning monuments of the country, also famous for its architectural excellence. The temple was built by Narasingha Dev in the 13th century AD. This massive structure also called Black Pagoda.


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